Sunday, March 31, 2013

Guy Bourdin- Story of a troubled but genius fashion photographer

I first came across Guy Bourdin's photography when I was preparing my portfolio for A'level art. I was attracted to his photography because he was a fashion photographer and my project was on fashion but more so because his photographs were so unique for his time. For those of you that are familiar with his work, you will I'm sure agree with me when I say that his images pushed the boundary of what would have been conventional at the time.

Bourdin was born in Paris in 1928 and sadly abandoned by his mother the year after. He was brought up by his father's parents and received his first photography training as a cadet in the French Air Force. He was an established photographer by the time his first fashion images were published in French Vogue in 1955. He went onto have a long and mutually fruitful relationship with the magazine which lasted for many years.

So what set Bourdin apart from his peers? I guess that depends on who you ask. If you speak to a fashion conservative they might say his photography defined everything that was perverse, shocking and disturbing. I suppose they maybe right. His photographs encompassed all that was misogynistic, erotic and sinister. However, if you asked a fan they may say those are the exact qualities that made him the best in his field and created his reputation as a revolutionary fashion photographer. I have to admit I am one of those fans. I am a fan of his more darker, shock inducing, surrealist photographs. I assure you the mood of his more sinister work does not in anyway reflect my own, I simply admire his work and find his images breathtaking. I was lucky enough to see his exhibition at the V&A in 2003; it took a very harassed friend and the lure of persian food to drag me away!

What do I find so mesmerising about his work? Take for example his habit of portraying women who appear dead in his images. It makes you think, it tells a story. It says yes these are beautiful images, the women are wearing beautiful clothes, jewellery and make-up but why do they appear to be dead? What is the story behind this image? It is this curiosity to know that makes you return to his photos over and over again; that and of course the glamour which can be found in abundance throughout his work. It also made me question what caused him to create the work that he did.

It could maybe be traced back to his relationship with women. It is thought that he never recovered from being abandoned by his mother and any women that he had a relationship with in his adult life were eventually trapped in both the relationship (mentally) and in his apartment (literally), not allowed to communicate with anyone in the outside world. Two of his lovers committed suicide, with one of them found hanging from the ceiling by his 13 year old son.

His wife Solange Geze died from what was thought to be an overdose. Did his troubled relationship with women define his relationship with photography? Possibly; he was well known for being very demanding on fashion shoots and was infamous for driving his models to distraction. Is my feminist self horrified that he treated women so abominably? Yes absolutely. Does that take away from his creative genius? No not at all. If at all possible it makes him even more beguiling and intriguing. Contrastingly, his friend Manolo Blahnik claims that Guy 'loved' and 'adored women'. He also apparently never thought of himself as a mysogynist but more as a 'poete damne'. I guess we will never know what exactly his relationship with the women in his life was and to what extent that affected/inspired his work.

He was never great at keeping a portfolio of his work thereby showing a disregard for fame and fortune. He was well known for not letting his pictures be used without context of a magazine,   he refused exhibitions and once turned down a handsome some of money as a reward from the french government. He was never interested in getting books published of his work. The first published book of his work came out after his death. Manolo Blahnik goes on to claim Bourdin to be so unique and brilliant that according to him no one can fill his shoes. I fear Blahnik maybe right; it maybe unlikely that there will be another photographer who has the same ability to shock and inspire quite the same way as Guy Bourdin.

believe that he was so driven by his own demons and appetite for sexual perversion that it resulted in his being a photographic genius.  Whether that is true I guess I shall never find out. Bourdin once claimed that his photographs were 'just accidents', I so wish more of us were able to create 'accidents' like his.

Saturday, March 30, 2013

Frieda Pinto in Naeem Khan

Frieda Pinto was spotted at the Lakme Indian fashion week recently sporting a beautiful Naeem Khan dress. However, I preferred it on the model on the catwalk with the belt as it gave the model more of a structure. Frieda looked stunning but maybe should have worn a belt. What do you think?

To Lace or not to Lace?

To Lace or not to Lace?

One of S/S 2013 hottest trends happens to be lace. Even though designers were using lace pre 2011, lace made a gigantic comeback when a certain Miss Middleton walked down the isle wearing a Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen lace overlay gown. I am sure we all remember that moment but just incase you missed it (no access to TV and magazines/ not interested in the British royal family/ lived in Mars)  here's a picture. After this appearance it seemed that all the weddings I went to (mostly in UK) had brides wearing gowns with lace overlay. High street had picked up the trend and all high street store were making (mostly poor versions) of lace dresses. It seemed so overdone to me by the following season that I vowed that no lace shall find its way into my closest! I also thought that surely after a year of lace, the fashion industry will get over it's obsession with the openwork fabric. I could not have been more wrong. You only need to see the some of the S/S 2013 collections to see how wrong I was.

Let's start with Oscar de la Renta. Lace was spotted all through his S/S 2013 collection. He used beautiful peach, paste green, sky blue, beige and cream palettes most likely as a homage to spring to create his exquisite line. I had to admit I would happily wear any of these (lace or no lace)!


Moving onto a slightly less formal collection (still formal just not as red carpet as de la renta) Loewe S/S 2013 (Right) also highlights some amazing lacework in their collection. Their collection was very work-to-cocktail chic and I love some of the sheer panelling at the bottom of dresses, another trend which made its appearance felt in Dior gowns worn during the red carpet season.

Not to be left behind Cavalli S/S 2013 (left) had lace work in almost all of its collection. The collection was heavily lace embellished featuring pastel colours.


Burberry S/S2013 showcased (right) some great lace dresses and Burberry signature trenches with lace overlay. I was not a great fan of the lace trench coats but I did like the Burberry Prorsum lace dresses. On the whole it did make for one of my favourite Burberry collections. Interestingly, this season (A/W 2013) lace was a lot less visible in their collection.


To finish off the lace vs no lace segment I had to include the Kings of lace Dolce and Gabbana. I am a HUGE fan of this label as it is probably one of the few labels in the market that cater for curves. I cannot go into a designer store and immediately buy something off-the-rail as I have a hourglass shape. However, the exception is D&G- the mecca for hourglass women! And of course their passion for lace is legendary. I have not seen very many D&G collections that did not include some form of lace. Take for example their S/S 2013 campaign headed by Monica Bellucci. Beautiful dresses on beautiful women!

I guess I concluded from the S/S 2013 collection that I actually am infact quite in love with lace. What about you? Love it or hate it?

Fashion in Politics


Fashionable Political Women- too much hype? 

Whilst reading a feature on Asma Assad in a certain glossy (said piece has now become quite infamous), I asked myself whether some women in politics get more attention in the media for their sartorial knowledge rather than their political presence. Should we really give someone more attention because they wear Lanvin like second skin rather than because they are one of the first people to promote women’s empowerment in Saudi Arabia (e.g. Princess Ameerah). Should we really care about Asma Assad’s new line of accessories when her husband is busy creating a genocide in his country? Does it really matter that Samantha Cameron can tell the difference between an Ellie Saab and an Erdem when her husband is announcing cuts for the public sector? Apparently so- which is why we have so many articles and blogs (like this one) dedicated solely to ‘what they wore’ rather than ‘what they/their other halves’ did. Here is a list of some women in politics that are considered to be in-vogue currently. Do you think we should pay attention to what these women wear? Let me know who you think should be included here by commenting. Enjoy! 


QUEEN RANIA,ASMA ASSAD and PRINCESS AMIRAH-  All these women have one common factor- no it is not that they are all middle eastern or that they are all always impeccably dressed (which they are), it is that they all have husbands who some would consider to be dictators. Their husbands have also been accused of falsely using their wives to promote a secular, fashionable and moderate view of their regimes/dynasties. This is probably less so for Princess Ameerah whose husband is not the ruling or future king of Saudi Arabia. However, her prominent presence in the Western media have caused conflict among the Saudi Royals with one of her husbands brothers threatening to ‘take action’ if she was not subdued by her husband and taught to behave like a ‘proper Saudi wife’. Here’s hoping that never happened!

Hina rabbani khar- Pakistan’s ex foreign minister- Known more for her multiple Hermes and Chanel bags then for her foreign policy. That is quite an achievement as Pakistan’s foreign policy is constantly in the press! She caused quite a stir in India when she made her first official visit causing many to call the indian press sexist. 

Carla Bruni- Ok so her husband is no longer the French president but when he was we heard more about Carla than we did about him. Some of her favourite designers include YSL, John Galliano and above all Christian Dior. This post would not be complete if I do not mentioned these two. Mrs Cameron is a self confessed fan of Erdem, Roksanda llincic Christopher Kane and Alessandra Rich whereas Mrs Obama prefers to showcase American designers such as Alexander Wang, Jason Wu (Canadian) and Thakoon. 

CHANEL Paris-Bombay 2012/2013

I cannot tell you how much I loved the Chanel 2012/2013 Paris-Bombay collection. Though some people claimed that it was Karl Lagerfield's shameless way of announcing himself to the emerging Indian market it did not make any difference- the collection  was an instant classic. The beading, the beautiful embroidery, the heavily embellished jackets complete with classic Chanel tweed made for an enchanting collection. To add to all of this the jewellery was simply mesmerising. Accessories seemed to me to be inspired from mugul/rajput royals with a side of Lagerfield. Don't believe me? Check out the pictures for yourself and let me know what you think! 









Thursday, March 28, 2013

Nicole Kidman in de la renta

I am afraid I am one of those controversial people who DO NOT necessarily love Nicole Kidman. I have nothing against her but she seems a little bland sometimes. Saying that, I am LOVING Nicole Kidman in this Oscar de la Renta fall 2013 gown. This dress was made for her, it fits her like a glove and attracts attention to her beautiful long limbs. She wore it to the Omega Gala ‘La Nuit Enchantee’ at Gartenpalais Liechtenstein in Vienna, Austria and paired it with a Roger Vivier clutch and a signature Omega watch. I am rather partial to red lipstick so full marks to her for finishing of her look with a dash of red lippy! What do you think?